3/28/2024 0 Comments Advance timing light snap on![]() ![]() Yes, you can do the same thing with a degree tape or a degreed damper, but you might need two people to be able to watch the tach and damper at the same time. Then you look to see how many degrees you have the light advanced. I just went to my desired rpm and clicked the advance/retard button until the timing mark flashed on ZERO degrees. ![]() It has two digital windows side-by-side, one reads rpm and other reads the advance you have it set at. Got to say it was REAL easy to determine when your advance is coming in. I used a friends Snap-On digital a couple of weeks ago. He said the others, (dial type),will be off by 4 or 5 degrees when you are at full advance. Snap-On Digital Tach-Advance Timing Light Computerized MT2261. If I got this all wrong I appologize in "advance" !!!! HA! HA!Īccording to Ignitionman the only rollback lights that work with modern ignition systems are the high end digitals like Snap-On, or MAC. as I would like to own one of these useful tools myself! I am no help as far as what brand to buy, but I will watch other replies to your post and see what suggestions other guys may make. Maybe someone else can clear this up for both of us. The only thing I am not sure of is if you need to add your initial timing to the timing found as explained earlier. You would then read the amount of timing marked off in degrees around the outside of the knob and that is your total timing at this rpm. They way I understand it, you can set your rpm anywhere you wish and "dial back" the timing mark to zero using the knob on the timing light (by "dial back", I mean watching the timing mark on balancer while your engine is running and adjusting the knob to bring back the timing mark to zero degrees). It would be nice to permanently mount one under the hood of a muscle car, LED at the harmonic balancer.Although I don't own one and have never used one, these devices are very useful for discovering the amount of timing your engine has at any given rpm. This site ripped off the schematic Pre-amp, one-shot and LED array driver. There are schematics of it floating around the web, it's free to look at the Circuit Notebook or next url they want money, confusing. I did like Silicon Chip magazine's automotive LED timing light May 2005. Who even needs a MCU in a timing light? I guess it could pre-flash for longer duration but that still makes a blur. Snap On is expensive, but no protection at the IC inputs, so too late to fix. As usual I took it apart, repaired the cables then forgot how it went together Can someone just look and confirm the. They had to be tossed in the garbage bin and management never again tried any product development, they were so pissed off. Has anyone here got a Snap on Timing light number MT2261A ( the computerized Tach / advance unit ) Mine broke today and I found the cables to the Spark Lead pickup unit had disconnected at the pick up. I've seen engineers do a SMPS with custom thick film modules and after getting 20,000pcs in, a design bug is found. The NRE cost is very high and the design has to be rock solid because there are high minimum order quantities. ![]() When you see a thick-film module like that, you know it's a good concept to make it small and cheap but very high risk. The output from this yellow rock goes off directly into the micro pin with just a couple of capacitors to ground as it travels the 10 inches or so from handle to micro. The question is really, is that one ohm reasonable under any circumstance? I cannot think of one situation where a small, dual opamp like this would only have one ohm between two output pins. Looking at the datasheets they don't seem that dissimilar so I stuck one in and now no flashing at all. Opamp suitably discorporate and joined the dust that is ever present in our polluted planet and the one ohm is still there so it is in the circuit under the yellow rock. So now I either try to remove more yellow rock to gain access to the circuit or I remove the opamp and buzz again. This does not (to me) seem very sensible. Once I got access to the opamp pins I was able to buzz out a few things and it seems that the two outputs have a resistance of only one ohm between each other. There was an eight pin DIL lump under the yellow so I carefully ground it away and it was as I expected, an LM393N dual opamp. That leaves me with this CRL8645M thing, a yellow blob and that yellow stuff is HARD. ![]() White is connected to ground and white > red and white > black give me differential signals from the inductive pickup so I am assuming that part is OK. The inductive pickup has three wires, red, black and white. The symptoms are that it will not flash when connected to a vehicle but it does flash if I stick a wire through the inductive pickup and step input a couple of amps so bulb and Xenon circuit, micro, rev counter and all the workings seem to be OK. ![]()
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